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Ask A Trainer with Judit Arroyo
Crate Training & Housebreaking: Not Two Sides of the Same Coin
Question: We have a seven month old, spayed Rottweiler-Retriever
mix. Unfortunately we did not start crate
training her from the start but have now. She likes her crate,
and goes to sleep at night after a few minutes of scratching and whining. She
sleeps for about 4 hours and then wakes up. We stop water at 6pm, and take her
out every hour from 6pm until "bed time". When she wakes up she needs
to go outside and pee. Do you have any suggestions on how to get her to sleep
through the night? - Judy, via email
Answer: There are two separate issues that need to be addressed: crate training
and housebreaking.
They should both be worked separately but congruently. The fact that your dog
was not crate trained until later in her life shouldn't have an affect on her
ability to "hold it" at night, unless she is able to "hold it"
when out of her crate (at night). Therefore, let's address one issue at a time
starting with crate training and followed by some housebreaking pointers.
While many people look at the crate as a negative tool or a place for punishment
it should actually be your dog's safe place and second home. To accomplish this,
you must create a positive association between your dog and her crate, using positive
reinforcement dog training techniques. First, start feeding your dog in the
crate so that she associates good things with it. You can also give her additional
dog treats
and goodies (like bones, treat
toys, etc...) in her crate.
Another way to build a positive association is to train your dog within the context
of the crate. Teach your dog to stay in the crate until you release her. Your
goal is to have her want to stay in her crate even if you release her; this means
that you will have succeeded in making the crate self-rewarding. Start by having
her in the crate with the door closed. Approach the crate, open the door and immediately
reinforce her (by placing a treat at the back of the crate) for being in the crate.
This is counter-conditioning - your dog's first impulse will most likely be to
jolt out the door when you first open it. After several repetitions, you'll notice
that your dog will wait in the crate for you to place a treat at the back, and
she'll voluntarily begin to wait for reinforcement. Now you can teach her that
an open crate door doesn't necessary mean "come out". Continue to train
your dog in the crate, and work on reinforcing your dog being calm and quite in
the crate. To do this, approach the crate door place, your hand on the door handle
and wait until your dog sits. The moment she sits open the crate and reinforce
her. If your dog breaks her sit immediately close the door and step away. Your
dog is not allowed to cross the threshold until she is released by you (whether
or not the crate door is open). When you're able to open the door all the way
without your dog breaking her sit release her from the crate. Once she's out of
the crate stop all forms of reinforcement and ignore her. She will come to understand
that it is in her best interest to stay in her crate because good things happen
when she is inside. For more step-by-step guidance on crate training checkout
Pat Miller's book, The
Power of Positive Dog Training.
Now to address your second problem: there are many reasons why your dog might
not be able to "hold it" throughout the night. Normally, when my clients
come in with a specific problem we go through an extensive in-take consultation
to collect even the most minute details of an individual's day-to-day life with
their dog. In order for any trainer to develop an effective strategy, one has
to be able to get to the root the problem. Some of the questions that come to
my mind are:
- Is there a physical problem causing the unwanted behavior?
- How many times a day do you walk your dog?
- When exactly is "bed time", and is it consistent?
- How many times does your dog wake you up at night?
Before beginning any behavior modification program, be sure to address the physical
question with your vet and rule out any medical problems such as a bladder infection
or other internal issue that might be affecting your dog's ability to "hold
it". After any physical ailments are ruled out, I would proceed with more
training. It is important that you look at the bigger picture, and not just the
"night" context. If you are walking your dog every hour you are putting
her on a fixed schedule so that her inner clock might be set to go potty frequently
during the day and continue throughout the night. Gradually extend the time between
her potty breaks to build her muscle control and her ability to hold her bladder.
Next, think back to the first time you noticed this behavior. Did your dog initially
wake up whining and crying? If so, what was your response? Did you ignore her
or did you assume she was crying because she needed to go potty? If you took her
out to potty each time she whined or cried your dog may have "trained"
you to let her out of the crate on her schedule. Think about it, does she potty
and then sleep through the night or does she continue to whine when you put her
back in her crate? If the latter is the case, and she only whines because she
wants to come out, working the crate games suggested above will help mitigate
the problem by creating a positive association and breaking the cycle.
Additionally, you'll need to address your dog's exercise needs. As we trainers
say, "a good dog is a tired dog!" A seven-month old pup needs lots of
exercise and activity to stimulate her mind and body and hence, induce a good
night's sleep. Make sure that your dog has plenty of high quality puppy
supplies, including dog
toys, puppy
pads and interactive elements. Instead of walking your dog every hour give
her appropriately spaced potty breaks throughout the day and then provide an extended
exercise period (45 minutes to 1 hour) prior to "bed time" either by
taking her to the dog park, playing
fetch and tug games or even light jogging. As I mentioned previously, be sure
to address your dog's physical abilities with your vet beforehand.
As a dog owner, it's important to be able to understand the reasons behind your
dog's behaviors. You'll need to examine every detail and look for the cause of
an unwanted behavior to effectively address it. Underlying causes might not always
be clear and obvious, but we must always be aware that our dogs are learning from
us all the time. Therefore, in addition to examining your dog's behavior, examine
yours as well. How do you react to your dog and what are you consequently teaching
her? Remember, problem solving involves both ends of the leash!
Judit Arroyo works in the day training program at Call
of the Wild School for Dogs, Chicago’s premier dog training facility.
She began her training career at age 17 and has developed a specialized interest
in working with defensive dogs. Judit is active in competitive obedience and agility
sports as well as Therapy Dogs International certification. Additionally, she
is an AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluator.
Ms. Arroyo has a BA from DePaul University and is active in community outreach
programs including Chicago Canine Rescue (CCR), New Leash on Life (NLOL) and has
led fundraising efforts for Cook County Animal Care & Control. Judit serves
as a Program Leader for Sit Stay Read!
and is currently developing their dog training program.
Have a question for PupLife.com's Ask A Trainer series? Contact
Us!
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